What is a 4L60E Transmission?
- 4l60e Super Servo Install
- 4l60e Servo Install Diagram
- 4l60e Transmission Servo
- 4l60e Corvette Servo Installation
The 4L60-E is an automatic shift, four-speed overdrive, longitudinally positioned transmission. It has been considered to be the best rendition of the finest overdrive automatic transmission ever produced. The 4L60-E is found in nearly every GM rear-wheel-drive application, including the C/K Truck, Sonoma, Jimmy, Tahoe, Yukon, Astro, Safari, Suburban, Bravada, Firebird, Camaro and Corvette
Before the Late 4L60-E transmission, there was the Turbo 700R, which was introduced in 1982. The 4L60-E is GM’s successful continuation of the ever-improving 700R4 (aka “4L60” since 1990), introduced in 1982. The 4L60-E is the “E”lectronically shift controlled version of the 4L60. The Late 4L60-E was released in 1997 in and fully phased into wide use through GM by 1998 in both RWD car platforms (including the C6 Corvette) and trucks in both 2wd and 4wd configurations. (Most transmission models are not distinctively noted with the “E” since all GM transmissions are now also controlled electronically.)
The only thing to watch with making the shifts in a 4l60E firmer is that the standard band isn't that big or that great. Toughen up one part of an auto and all you do is put strain on another, don't get me wrong this is about as tame a mod as there is, plenty of cars have ran a corvette servo for years without a problem. Servo Installation a. Remove OE servo cushion spring and replace with Sonnax servo cushion spring (Figure 12). Reinstall the conical OE bumper spring if used in your applica-tion. Replace OE 4th servo return spring under the washer and C-clip with Sonnax 4th servo return spring. Install rubber D-rings onto servos.
The 4L60E Transmission has went through many changes/improvements over the years since it first came out in 1982. From bells to valve bodies, added solenoids, changes in pump and convertors. The 4L60E transmission weighs 146 pounds dry, and 162 wet. It requires 8.4 quarts (9.64″ torque converter) or 11.4 quarts (11.81″ torque converter) of transmission fluid,
Top 30 Common 4L60E Transmission Problems and Repair
Below is a list of common transmission problems with the GM 4L60E Transmission and possible solutions to repair. Although you may have some of these symptoms / problems with your 4L60E Transmission, the repair solution may differ. This list is merely a guide to the possible solutions. For a complete diagnosis on your GM 4L60E Transmission problem, contact us for a Free Diagnostic.
Below is a list of common transmission problems with the GM 4L60E Transmission and possible solutions to repair. Although you may have some of these symptoms / problems with your 4L60E Transmission, the repair solution may differ. This list is merely a guide to the possible solutions. For a complete diagnosis on your GM 4L60E Transmission problem, contact us for a Free Diagnostic.
1. Slow, slipping or no reverse: “lo-reverse” clutches are worn out, fluid leak in the reverse apply circuit, or broken sunshell. It is possible to remedy a fluid problem by removing the checkball from its cage in the case in the rear of the transmission may help (must remove valve body), or adding a high-viscosity additive or other seal restorer product. May also have worn boost valve (can replace in the pan).
2. 1-2 shift does not happen at WOT (Wide Open Throttle) until you let off the gas: Best case: try replacing the TPS. Middle case: leak in the 2nd gear apply circuit (servo assembly or 1-2 accumulator). Double check by using the pressure gauge and watch for a big drop when the PCM commands 2nd gear. Worst case: poor line pressure rise (see below).
3. 1-2 Shift shudder at WOT (Wide Open Throttle); delayed or abnormal 1-2 shift; There’s a problem ONLY on the 1-2 shift: 1-2 accumulator piston cracked or stuck cocked in the bore. Check the yellow spring inside the accum housing for breakage. Also, if the accumulator housing walls are scored, the housing must be replaced.
4. 1-2 shift is delayed and harsh, may not shift into OD: TPS needs to be checked for smooth and linear electrical response over the entire range of motion. If not, this must be replaced.
5. Trans does not upshift out of first, speedometer reads zero at all times: Could be VSS failure. Rear of transmission needs to be fixed. Transmission needs to come out in order to access VSS.
6. No 3rd or 4th gear: “3-4” clutches are worn out: Needs to be removed and rebuilt. The car is safe to drive (in 2) until you can get it fixed.
7. Sudden grinding noise with no prior warning primarily in 2nd gear, behavior in reverse may be abnormal: sunshell is fractured. Must be removed and rebuilt. Try not to run or drive the car or further damage could result.
8. 1st and 3rd only, no 2,4 or R: Sunshell is fractured or splines are sheared off. Transmission must be removed and rebuilt. Try not to run or drive the car or further damage could result.
9. No 2nd or 4th gear. 2-4 band is slipping: Servo seals may be damaged. Otherwise, 2-4 band is worn out. Transmission must be removed and rebuilt.
10. Trans shifts into gear harshly, car feels sluggish off the line, No 1st, 4th or TCC lockup available, Manual 2nd, 3rd and Reverse are only available gears, CEL is on: transmission is either in limp-home mode or has lost electrical power. If there are lots of error codes in the PCM, check the underhood fuse that powers the transmission, and if it pops again, look for a short in that circuit like an O2 sensor harness touching exhaust. Otherwise, check PCM codes for a particular fault in the transmission causing the PCM to put it in limp-home mode.
11. No 1st or 4th available; trans shifts 2nd to 3rd by itself in D or OD and locks the converter: ShiftA solenoid failed Or a wiring problem from PCM to trans or PCM. Needs diagnostic testing.
12. Car goes into gear but feels very sluggish like the brakes are dragging, but it will roll easily (starts out in 4th gear), you manually shift to 2 to get it moving, once it’s moving you put it back in OD and the car shifts 3rd to 4th on its own and locks the converter at the appropriate time: ShiftB solenoid failed: A wiring problem from PCM to transmission or PCM.
13. No TCC (Torque Converter Clutch) lockup: Brake pedal switches improperly adjusted (always on), TCC solenoid failed, TCC clutch worn out (must remove transmission and replace TC).
14. TCC (Torque Converter Clutch) always locked: TCC apply solenoid circuit shorted to ground, TCC solenoid blockage, or TC broken (must remove trans and replace TC).
4l60e Super Servo Install
15. Horrible noise in 4th and feels like the brakes are on: overrun clutches are applying due to a cracked or leaking forward piston. Overrun clutches will be worn out after 30 seconds of this behavior. Car can be safely driven in D. Transmission must be removed and rebuilt.
16. Soft shifting, gradual performance degradation: Poor line pressure rise due to leaking boost valve, clogged EPC filter screen, failing EPC solenoid, or worst case: leaky seals throughout. Seal restorer may fix last problem, but probably remove and rebuild needed.
17. No forward movement in OD or D, but L2, L1 and R work: Forward sprag is broken. Transmission must be removed and rebuilt. Try not to run or drive the car or further damage could result.
![4l60e Servo Install 4l60e Servo Install](/uploads/1/1/8/4/118491073/687997509.jpg)
18. Extremely harsh shifts from P or N, normal shifts at WOT: EPC (Electronic Pressure Control) solenoid failed. Fix as soon as possible or hard parts will eventually break.
19. Loud bang, grinding sound, loss of all gears, and a binding driveshaft: Snapped output shaft. Try to wiggle driveshaft – if more than 0.020″ play, that’s the sign. Must be removed and transmission rebuilt.
20. Trans seems noisy when moving in 1st and Reverse, noise goes away instantly if you shift to N or the transmission goes into 3rd gear: Reaction planetary is worn out due to high miles or insufficient lubrication. Not a critical failure, but not a good sign either. Transmission must be removed and rebuilt, sooner rather than later.
21. No movement in any gear: pump failure, or total loss of fluid. Remove transmission and rebuild, or refill pan and find the leak. If out of fluid, avoid running the engine until the transmission is refilled to avoid pump damage. To check for pump failure, check fluid level with the engine off, then start the engine and recheck fluid level. If level does not go down when engine is running, the pump is broken.
22. Transmission does not shift automatically, only manually. New PCM, check wiring, check other sensors such as VSS and TPS.
23. 3rd gear starts, can manually shift through all gears. When car has been turned off for a bit, then back on it will run normally.: VSS dropoff w/ Hi-stall converter. The rpms are too high, but VSS is showing no movement. Happens after a tire burning take-off. Doesn’t store a code, will not throw a CEL (I’ve heard that it will store a code if it happens 3 or more times). Cure: Reprogram PCM for VSS dropoff.
24. Fluid leak out of the front of trans where the converter connects; partial or full loss of movement: Front pump bushing walked out. Transmission must be removed and rebuilt. May have to replace converter also if hub is scored. Note that a leaking front seal usually means the bushing is walking out.
25. Torque converter shudder in 4th while lockup is engaged; problem goes away when the brake pedal is pressed slightly to unlock converter: Need to verify line pressure, and provided no valves in the TCC (Torque Converter Clutch) hydraulic circuit are worn, replace the torque converter.
26. Shift suddenly become very hard. When going from park to either reverse or drive it slams into gear. 1-2 and 2-3 shifts are also harsh. All gears seems to work. Problem may be intermittent: Check TPS for smooth electrical response. If the response is jumpy or erratic at all, replace TPS (Throttle position sensor).
27. All fluid pumped out through the vent tube: Plugged cooler line. Flush the transmission cooler and cooler lines. Also could be overfiled transmission.
28. Car acts like it’s in OD in neutral, car is locked stationary in R, engine feels loaded in P, all four forward positions work fine: Transmission must be removed and rebuilt. Internal crossleak feeding the forward clutches all the time. Most likely a cracked input housing, or cracked forward piston means forward clutches are fused together. Car can safely be driven gently in forward gears until the repair.
29. Needle bearings in the pan, first gear and/or reverse may be noisy: Either a torrington bearing or a planetary bearing is on its way out. Transmission will eventually die a loud, catastrophic death. Cheaper to rebuild now (saves further damage to hard parts), but requires removal and rebuild. It is drivable until it breaks.
![4l60e Servo Install 4l60e Servo Install](/uploads/1/1/8/4/118491073/747069388.jpg)
30. 1-2 or 2-3 shift is slow/soft above part throttle: Transmission is on its way out. Transmission must be removed and rebuilt.
Twin Automotive & Transmission, Charlotte’s Transmission Specialist, provides free transmission repair diagnostics (diagnostic is free with repair of the transmission). Twin Automotive offers Charlotte NC ‘s Longest Transmission Rebuild Warranty – 3 Years / Unlimited Miles.
The above top 30 common problems with the 4L60E Transmission and possible solutions for repair are merely a guide. Although you may have a similar problem as those listed above, the repair may differ based upon a visual inspection of the vehicle. Transmission problems only worsen with time. If you have any problems with your GM 4L60E Transmission, it is best to speak with a professional transmission repair expert. Still looking for answers?
Check out this INFOGRAPHIC: Five Common 4L60-E Transmission Problems
The 4L60E transmission has long been a mainstay in the General’s arsenal of transmissions. The descendent of the 700R4, the 4L60E trans has a long history of backing up some fairly potent motors. In 1994, GM started using the 4L60E in all rear-wheel drive cars, until 2001 when performance demands had increased beyond its current capacity, and it was replaced with the 4L65E. The 4L65E was built on the same platform as the 60, but with a few differences. The 4L60E uses 4-pinion planetary carriers, these carriers are rated to 360 ft. lbs of torque. The 4L65E utilizes 5-pinion planetaries, along with a hardened input shaft, that boosted torque capacity to 380 ft.lbs. The nice thing about all of this is that the 5-lug parts are easily swapped into the 4L60E, leaving you with the ability to upgrade your existing tranny without having to buy a new unit.
Replacing the planetary carriers requires a full teardown. If you have never done this before, this may not be the time to start. This is not the most difficult tranny to build but it is certainly not the easiest. And there are a few specialized tools needed to correctly complete the job. A Rear Clutch Spring Compressor, Universal Pump Remover, Front Pump Alignment Band, Turbine Shaft Installer, and a Teflon Stator Shaft Installer, are all needed to properly disassemble and reassemble the 4L60E transmission.
The 4L60E transmission is an electronically controlled unit, notated as such by the “E” after the name. In 1993, when the 4L60E was introduced, the 700R4 was renamed 4L60. This is important as while they share some parts, they are different transmissions. In 1995, GM converted the 4L60E converter lockup circuit to a Pulse Width Modulated circuit. This type of lockup circuit offers a smoother transition as it pulses the signal instead of all at once. A PWM-type tranny will be marked with “PWM” on the front of the pump. The important thing to remember here is that the tranny type, PWM or non-PWM, must match the computer in the car, otherwise it will not function properly.
Since the upgrade requires a complete teardown, a full rebuild, with a few extra performance pieces, is a good idea. There are a few areas that require special attention and are commonly overlooked. The Pump Pressure Relief is the #1 cause of failure after overhaul. It is very easy to forget this little ball and spring, but it tends to get gummy and starts sticking. Even a few miles down the road can cause a failure, because the converter can’t release its pressure, eventually leading to overheating.
For this rebuild, we used several kits. A Trans-Go reprogramming kit, a Sonnax Billet 4th-gear “Super Hold” Servo, a Raybestos Z-pack clutch kit, and Red Eagle Red-Oxide clutches. We cherry picked the clutch kit, using the Z-pack for the 3-4 gear clutches. These are specifically designed to not bow and have superior holding power. The Red-Oxide clutches have better hold for 1-2.
Another piece that is a must in any high-performance transmission, is a beefy sun shell gear. It is integral in 2nd and reverse application. The stock parts have a tendency to sheer off the gear at the neck in high-performance applications. The aftermarket responded with the “Beast” sun shell. This unit is made of overall thicker material and includes a new thrust washer.
Here is the meat of the conversion, the 5-pinion rear planetary. In high-performance applications, the rear planetary carrier carries all the stress. Upgrading to the 5-pinion unit offers the ability to hold much higher torque values. The 4L60E also uses a 4-pinion front planetary carrier, which is more expensive than the rear unit. Upgrading to the 5-pinion front carrier is advisable in towing applications and where horsepower numbers are above 500. Our ’96 Impala will be running right at or just over 500, so only the rear 5-pinion was upgraded.
The 3-4 gear clutches reside in the drum, this is where the Z-pack comes in. The clutches are stacked in this order- finger clutch, inside clutch, finger clutch, etc. The final clutch is the brown clutch. The clutches are correctly stacked when the brown clutch is even with snap-ring groove. Then the 5 anti-centrifugal rev springs are installed, then the pressure plate, and another snap-ring.
With the drum assembled, the outer surface needs to be cleaned. Using a 3M coarse surfacing pad, the entire outer surface is cleaned of any glazing. The drum must be flat and smooth, if the drum surface is concave, it should be replaced. For the drum band, it is suggested using a late-model high-intensity band over a wide band. The wide band has little more hold, but the high-intensity band grabs and releases faster, which is more important in a high-performance application. The wide band is better suited for towing or in cases where the drum is worn in the center and replacement is cost prohibitive.
4l60e Servo Install Diagram
The Sonnax “Super Hold” billet servo can be installed with the trans in the car. This unique piece offers 40% more surface area for better holding power in 4th gear. This helps eliminate band failure in high-performance applications. It is simple to install, only a set of snap ring pliers is required. Just be sure to use the supplied steel washer. There is some adjustment to be made here though. The typical travel of the servo pin is .125”, if it is greater than that, the pin should be changed or carefully ground down to achieve the desired travel.
Valve Body–
The valve body is an important step in modifying the 4L60E for performance applications. The Trans-Go reprogramming kit comes with everything needed to fix the valve body and make it suitable for high-horsepower. Before the valve body can be bolted on, the separator plate needs to be modified.
The separator plate rests between the transmission case and the valve body. It is a thin piece of die-cut sheet metal with 50 or 60 holes in it. Using the illustration in the reprogramming kit’s instruction, there are 10 holes that require drilling. These are the pressure apply and relief ports. Opening these up to .093” increases shift firmness and adjusts the timing of each shift. Not included in the kit instructions, we suggests drilling out the solenoid A and B ports to .040”. We found that this slightly increases shift time, which makes for a nice shift pattern on the street.
The 2nd accumulator body is modified with the springs supplied in the Trans-go kit. Using 2 springs gives the trans a very firm shift, using all 3 is for full-race applications only and will probably be too harsh for the street. We used 2 for the Impala.
The valve body itself gets a new spring and valve which modifies the isolator and converter regulator to allow the use of any type of torque converter lockup plate.
The total package, including labor, priced out at about $1300, not including the torque converter. We used an ATI High-stall Streetmaster lockup converter, which had a pretty hefty price tag at $640. All of the extra work we put into the transmission was well worth it. The Impala responds like it never has before and shifts nice and snappy under part throttle, but the full-throttle shifts are super sharp, and much better than the stock slush box.
1. The 4L60E transmission is a worthy unit, capable of withstanding the tortures of streetstrip abuse, as long as it has been outfitted with a few high-performance goodies.
2. Transmission rebuilding requires specialized tools that are not found in your average toolbox. Shown here are just a few of the tools needed to work on the 4L60E. From the top, left to right- Cotter key pick, teflon shaft installer, rear clutch spring compressor, universal pump remover, electrical connection removal tool (a large socket will work, but usually breaks a tab), and 2 snap ring pliers.
3. The front of the pump will have the letters “PWM” cast into it if the unit is from a 95-and newer model. This is very important if you are swapping the trans into a different car. The computer MUST match the trans, a non-PWM computer will not control a PWM trans and vice versa.
4. Cleanliness is a virtue, especially when it comes to transmissions. The case for the 4L60E was washed for a few hours in the hot bath. Since hot tanks have pretty much been outlawed by the EPA, 250-degree water and soap will have to due.
5. This little spring and ball will ruin your day if you forget to clean it. The pump pressure relief spring is the #1 cause of post-overhaul failure.
6. WIT or Whatever It Takes Transmission Parts supplied the required goodies to rebuild the tranny. We chose to use the Z-pack 3-4 clutches over the Red Eagles as they don’t bow under high pressure.
7. The clutches were soaked in a bucket of Dexron III before being installed in the tranny. Forget this step and you may as well throw it all away.
8. The sun shell gear is a big liability, especially for a performance trans. The Beast sun gear (right) is made of thicker material and is particularly beefy around the neck, where they are prone to sheering. The Beast also comes with a new Torrington thrust bearing. The 2001- and later model 4L65E features a completely new design, eliminating the failure-prone features.
9. The 5-pinion planetary carrier (right) is better built and carriers an additional gear, which increases its stock-rated capacity to 380 ft. lbs. That is a substantial improvement over the 4-pinion carrier (left) which only holds to 360 ft. lbs.
10. The carrier was assembled with the matching top carrier and installed in the tranny.
11. With the 1st and reverse clutches installed, it is recommended using a “block saver.” This $6 clip keeps the lowreverse sprag from rotating and eventually breaking the case.
12. The Z-pack clutches were installed in the drum and checked for clearance. You don’t want the clutches too tight or too loose. The easy visual check is to make sure the top clutch is even with the snap-ring groove. The anti-centrifigal rev springs are important as they keep the clutch pack tight.
13. The drum was cleaned using a coarse 3M Roloc pad. This drum was in good shape, so it did not need a replacement.
14. The high-intensity band was installed after the drum was dropped in place. It took a little massaging to get the band to snap in to place.
15. The servo pin was checked for clearance and was in spec, so the washer was installed.
16. Then the Sonnax “Super Hold” servo was installed. A snap ring holds it in place.
17. The pump assembly received a new main pressure regulator and boost valve that came with the Trans-Go reprogramming kit. This is not a shift kit, this kit actually creates a new shift pattern.
18. The kit also came with instructions to modify the separator plate. Throwing caution to the wind, we drilled out the holes using a .093” bit. We should have at least worn gloves.
19. The 2nd accumulator makes the biggest difference in shift feel. We installed 2 springs for our Impala. The 3rd spring should only be used for race units.
20. The valve body cannot be cleaned with soap and water, the solvent tank is the best bet here. Yes, the electrical components are going to be fine, the solvent won’t hurt them.
21. The valve body received a few springs to tighten the shift points and increase pressures, all part of the performance package.
22. This little spreader spring keeps the EPC screen from collapsing under high suction.
23. The valve body was then bolted down to the case and the electrical connections were once again connected.
24. A new filter and cork gasket finish off the internals of the build. Never use silicone sealant on a tranny pan, there are several small ports on the gasket rail that will get plugged if silicone is used. A burned up tranny is not far behind.
25. The final step was installing the new rear seal. Brass hammers are a must when dealing with a transmission, breaking stuff sucks.
4l60e Transmission Servo
Sources:
ATI Performance Products
4l60e Corvette Servo Installation
Whatever It Takes Transmission